Hair Products 2016

I’m not sure when I wrote the last post, but ‘hello there.’ I thought I would post more after finishing my graduate program. But, alas, one has to build a career. In any case, it seems appropriate to warm-up with a post about  hair. It’s very easy, and, yes, 7 years later I am still obsessed with my hair.

So I’ve found out a few things about my hair and scalp. Yes, that’s right, I was using the anti-dandruff shampoo by Shea Moisture. Well, now I’ve concluded that I simply cannot use Shea Moisture products. I don’t find them moisturizing, and the shampoos ultimately make my scalp itch. Which leads me to  a video I found about three weeks ago. Hair vlogger, Naptural85 posted a YouTube video about her sensitivity to coconut oil. Not just her sensitivity, but why she stopped using coconut oil. Upon hearing her symptoms, I thought about what I had been experiencing with my scalp –itchiness, sore spots, and dryness/flakiness. I decided to eliminate coconut oil and as many coconut derivatives as possible.

You would not believe how many products use coconut oil or coconut cleansers. And the many names of coconut cleansers. I’ve been using shea butter, avocado oil, and sweet almond oil as sealants and refreshers for a while, so it wasn’t a big deal to eliminate coconut from the line-up. It was simply finding products that didn’t include coconut oil.

Along with the elimination of coconut oil, I’ve also started to reverse wash. I love the results. I think this is particularly helpful if you have fine, natural hair, and you have scalp issues. The two things that I’ve noticed is that 1) My hair has more volume and body. That is, it’s fuller and it has more movement, and 2) It has, along with the elimination of coconut oil, significantly reduced the scalp itch and irritation. I think the reverse wash gets rid of any conditioner product that may get left behind– reduces build-up.

Now, I’m not completely sold on my current shampoo because it seems a bit drying, but it doesn’t have any coconut cleansers. And I add a light coating of Jojoba oil to a clean scalp, and this combats any dryness that may occur (I use a Q-tip to apply the oil to my scalp).

So without further ado here is my current product list:

Reverse Wash:

  • Inexpensive conditioner (I just found out last week that Aussie Moist has added sodium chloride to the current formula, so I am now searching for a new conditioner. I thought Tresemme would be good, but their conditioners have potassium chloride, which is just as bad as sodium chloride–they are cheap thickeners and just don’t feel good on the hair. I felt that the sodium chloride reduced slip. I may go back to Herbal Essences Totally Twisted)
  • Obia Naturals Babassu Deep Conditioner (So good!)
  • Fairly Traded Honey by Lush (really sudsy and drying, so I don’t use a lot. Also, I’m super critical of Lush. The products smell great, but most of their products are not ph balanced–their bar soaps and regular shower gels make my skin crack and break out in these weird thingys. I don’t know what one would call it, but when I stop using their stuff, my skin clears up. Also, they still use parabens and haven’t come up with a satisfactory reply to why they still use them, “there are parabens in your food…” just doesn’t cut it for me.
  • Curl Junkie Smoothing Lotion (Leave-in, Holy Grail product!)

Leave-in/Stylers (I use the LOC method):

  • Camille Rose Almond Jai Twisting Butter (Liquid:  In addition to the Curl Junkie Smoothing lotion, I use this as a leave-in for wash ‘n go styles. I have yet to use it for a twist out, but it is as good as people say. I was hesitant to try it for my own reasons. Also, I had been using Jessicurl Deep Treatment, which is still good, but the Camille Rose is a nice change)
  • Qhemet Biologics Olive & Honey Hydrating Balm (Oil: Holy Grail! I love this stuff, and it took me a while to figure out how to use it. I actually gave my first batch away because I couldn’t figure it out. I learned how to use it from a curly who used to be really active on naturally curly’s curl talk forum. You have to emulsify this with water. So I squeeze a small dollop into the palm of my hand, add a few drops of cool water, and then mix it into a cream. I add this in sections
  • My DIY shea butter mix: (Cream) shea butter, avocado oil, and sweet almond oil. Mix with hand blender or if it’s a small batch, you can try to blend it with a spoon.
  • Spritz my hair with water (bottle from Sally Beauty Supply)
  • Apply Kinky Curly Curling Custard (Holy Grail! I’ve been using this since I found it, and I think that was 6 or 7 years ago. It freaks me out because I should probably try something else, but this gives me consistently great wash ‘n gos, and hold for days! I can’t quit it)

Yes, this seems like a lot, but my routine has actually gotten simpler over time. I want it to be even more simple! I wish that I could find one moisturizing leave-in, but my hair is porous, so no go. And the Shea Moisture High Porosity Masque seemed ‘Ok’ at first, but I started to notice that my hair was tangling more.

Has anyone had scalp issues? Problems you’ve noticed with certain product lines? I hope to post soon!

 

 

 

David Bowie: “Let’s Dance”

(No images, video or music with this post because I don’t know about copyright on his work, also you should be able to find plenty online if you are interested.)

The first David Bowie experience I remember was the release of “Let’s Dance.” This R&B tinged, bass-thumping, infectious pop single from the album of the same name, was on heavy rotation in the room that I shared with my older sister.

I’m not saying that I had never heard Bowie before this, but like many older musicians when one is young, there is a time when an artist or musician invades ones reality, and this was it. The entire album was part of the soundtrack of my 1980s life! “Modern Love,” and “China Girl”…Mmmm, so good!

Flash forward to 1990, and I was in my first year of college—a college I soon left because I couldn’t afford it. Through a series of odd events I ended up spending the night at this redheaded, freckle-faced androgynous, passionate kid’s apartment between Lake View and Buena Park. When we woke up, he wanted to play some David Bowie for me. And I thought “Great!” Thinking of my close attachment to the “Let’s Dance” album. But this Bowie, this Bowie I didn’t know. I had never met this guy—this person? He looked like an alien and called himself, his band Ziggy Stardust. Of course there was “Life on Mars,” which I heard often while growing up (it was released in 1971, the year I was born.) And I still love this song. There are many other singles from that time, but none resonated with me as much as much as the entire “Let’s Dance” album. I think this has to do with coming of age. Coming into reality. Coming into dreams. Everyone has that part of life.

The following years were, and continue to be, filled with classic Bowie singles: “Heroes,” “Under Pressure,” and “Fame.”

In December of 2014, I had the pleasure and the luck of seeing the “David Bowie Is” exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) in Chicago. I took my 11 year-old niece who I am certain did not appreciate it as much as I did, ha! But I got to share a glimpse into a master artist’s life’s work with her. We walked through the decades to a Bowie soundtrack; packed full of costumes, doodles, albums, and other precious artifacts (a giant Kimono.)

One area: a dead end into a small studio recording room with black, soundproof insulation on the walls. We were then drawn into a mini movie theater where Bowie’s film roles flashed on the screen. We hung out in this room, as there was so much to process that it was nice to take a brief time out before walking into the 21st century.

There was a giant room with concert footage projected onto the walls, which were constructed of see through screens; when one projection ended you could see through the screens to Bowie’s performance costumes on Bowie-quins.

There was so much more. But here we are.

 

Hair update and 2016

Happy New Year! Okay, so it’s very strange to have my first post of 2016 be about hair, but there’s too much stuff going on (or not enough? stuff going on) in my professional life to post. And I don’t want to devolve into complaining. So let’s talk about what I am excited about, and that’s hair.

I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this before, but I’ve been struggling with scalp issues (dry, itchy scalp) for about two years. Before this, I never had scalp problems. I think being a product junkie triggered an imbalance (I particularly noticed a problem after using a bentonite clay based hair wash.) It’s taken me two years to find a shampoo that doesn’t dry out my hair, and at the same time doesn’t leave my scalp dry and itchy (this could also be due to product being left on my scalp.)

I want to note here that this scalp problem has caused slow growth, and some hair loss and thinning.

Initially, I used Aveda Scalp Benefits, which worked enough. That is, it reduced the itchiness, but didn’t get rid of the small flakes I had due to dryness. After this, I tried Shea Moisture’s African Black Soap shampoo formula. It’s for people with dandruff and various forms of scalp dermatitis. Yes, it got to a point where I thought I had a form of dermatitis. This formula worked for a few washes, but then stopped working, and actually made the itch and dryness worse.

I had some Aveda Rosemary Mint lying around (an Aveda consultant/stylist recommended that I use it once a month while using the Scalp Benefits), and I decided to use it, as the first time I used it, it didn’t dry my hair out and I don’t remember being super itchy a few days out from wash day. Welp! I’ve decided that I am going to use this formula as my regular shampoo.

I haven’t had any flakes, and my scalp is better than it’s been in the past two years.

Now onto new products! Shea Moisture has just released a line of low porosity and high porosity hair lines. I’ve linked resources that define these two types of porosity, but they are not that great. So do your own research.

Working with my hair, I do not use or purchase products according to my curl pattern, which is 4a. I work with porosity, ph, and hair strand density. In other words, I have fine hair strands that are highly porous. The key to maintaining hair growth is to use products and processes that reduce tangling and dryness, which cause breakage. I pre-treat with coconut oil and conditioner. This allows me to do a small amount of dry detangling before I wash. My HG conditioner is Aussie Moist.  I use it to pre-treat and then detangle after washing.

Okay, all of that to get back to the new Shea Moisture lines. I have highly porous hair, and selected the High Porosity Moisture-Seal masque. I found both High and Low porosity lines at Target. I first saw the High Porosity line at a Target in Pennsylvania (I think it was the Cheltenham/Wyncote location). I didn’t purchase because it was the holiday, and I was low on funds. Anyway, after I left Pennsylvania, I was kicking myself because I was sure that I wouldn’t be able to find it once I got back home. But, as you can see below, I found it at my local Target!

This line has a shampoo, co-wash, styler, and a deep conditioning masque. I decided to try the masque only because Shea Moisture products haven’t worked for me. I don’t co-wash anymore because I think this is one of the things that set off my scalp problem. I will not try the shampoo, but might try the styler, though, I do have an HG styler.

I had low expectations for this product. I’ve tried three different Shea Moisture masques: Coconut Hibiscus, Raw Shea Butter, and the African Black Soap Plantain. They did absolutely nothing for my hair. I didn’t feel like they moisturized or protected in any way.

So I was pleasantly surprised when I sank my fingers into the High Porosity Moisture-Seal Masque. Amazing! Seriously. It is rich, creamy and moist. I think it is because the first few ingredients are moisturizing alcohols. It supposedly contains Mongongo and Hemp seed oils…I don’t trust Shea Moisture, but it very well could contain micro amounts of these oils. It also contains apple cider vinegar (ACV), which, with its low ph (around 3) helps close the hair cuticle (locks in the moisture); though, I don’t know how ACV reacts when combined with other ingredients.

I’ve heard other curlies describe a conditioner that melted their tangles, but I had never experienced it until now. Upon first use, I used way too much because a lot of it stayed on my hands (this is how rich it is, and not rich in that thick way, but in a creamy way.) The scent is like a cheap, men’s cologne, but not offensive.

This contains mild proteins, which is good for fine natural hair. I can’t use heavy proteins because they dry my hair out.

I have nothing left to say about this except that I will continue to use it unless it does something weird to my hair.

4/5 curls from me! I gave it 4/5 because the price ($12.99) was higher than what I’ve paid for other Shea Moisture masques.

Check out the High/Low Shea Moisture lines at your local Target. I think they may be slowly rolling these out, so if you don’t see it there, check back! The Low Porosity line comes with a bright orange label and is protein-free.

BTW, it looks like they are introducing Detox and Refresh, and Frizz Defense lines, too. I’m not messing with those tho,🙂.

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Shea Moisture High Porosity Moisture Masque 2016

The unbearable whiteness of librarianship

Some good reading for you while I am away. It’s a year old, but a year in librarianship? What’s that?

Feral Librarian

Yep, I’m still harping on that theme of the stark lack of diversity in librarianship. For a profession that claims Diversity as a core value and declares that “We value our nation’s diversity and strive to reflect that diversity by providing a full spectrum of resources and services to the communities we serve” to be so lacking in diversity is embarrassing.

How far from reflecting our nation’s diversity are we in terms of credentialed librarians? Using the ALA Diversity Counts data and comparing it to US Census data for 2013, and US Census projections for 2060, it is clear to me that we are nowhere close.

There are a few different ways to illustrate the disparities between the racial make-up of credentialed librarians and the current and future US population.

For the visual crowd, a simple bar chart comparing percentage of librarians by race (2010, based on ALA Diversity Counts…

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I will return in the next 4 to 6 weeks

Whew! I haven’t been on here in a minute! I finished library school this year ( my first master’s degree.) I’m not sure what is next in the way of school, but I am now on the job hunt. I was turned down for my first professional position this past week. It sucked, but a couple of other positions popped up to soften the blow.

I am a huge critic of the library and archives professions particularly in the way that they pursue diversity–a word I now hate. Let’s see, what terms come to mind? Deliberate exclusion and abolitionist mentality (academic libraries specifically.)

Needless to say, there will be plenty to discuss. And for those of you that are interested in hair updates, I have a few of those, as well. It is definitely called a natural hair journey for a reason.

I hope all is well with all of you out there!

The Employment Interview and Free Labor

And, I am back! I am so glad that spring semester is over–it was a rough one. During the semester (and before grad school) I had been, and continue to be, job hunting. I am a critic of unpaid internships, so I  have been thinking about the topic of extraction of free labor during the job interview for quite some time. This post will by no means be a scholarly approach to the topic. That is, some discussions only require common sense.

I don’t think that people should work for free. You give people, corporations, and small businesses an inch, and they will take a mile. I speak from experience, as I have worked somewhat independently for the past seven years. I was a practicing clinical massage therapist. In short, I’ve done my share of free labor for marketing, and it did nothing for my business. People and potential clients took me for granted. They would come to my chair or table without showering, and wouldn’t tip because they felt as if I was making enough, or simply did not care. Perhaps they thought I was on public assistance? In any case, I was an excellent massage therapist, who took special pride in my work and clients.

Side Bar: Schools are notorious for recommending that students (undergraduate, graduate, and so on) work for free. They know that students have expenses and STUDENT LOANS to pay for, yet, they continue to promote this to the student body and local businesses. My current school/program does this, and it is a bad practice. These companies (located in a major metropolitan area) can, at least, afford to pay minimum wage.

I stopped practicing because I was investing more money than I received, or I was not getting a good return on my investment. I did what a business person does; called clients, participated in networking events, and talked to friends to build my business. And it did not work. I just had a former client call me for a massage after avoiding me for five years. She wanted a specific modality that I hadn’t practiced in two years, so I tried to find her a referral. Here is where my story of free labor begins.

I spent several days trying to track down a massage therapist for her (as she said that she had gotten sicker since we last saw each other.) At the end of this process I wasted many unpaid hours, and she had found a therapist on her own. Why on earth did she not do that in the first place? And why on earth did I do that for her? I learned from that. I felt sorry for her, but she has access to more resources than me. She is well off and has access to the most expensive health care in my region. This is called “falling for the okedoke.”

I had a conversation with a person on Twitter about how not to give away your best ideas in an interview. Her complaint was that she had been on several interviews where she gave out her best ideas, heard that the company had implemented some if not all of them, and did not hire her. I’ve had similar experiences, and I am sure there are many who have had the same experience. I have been on several interviews where the interviewers asked “What would you do with this website? What would you do for this blog?,” etc. They took down my ideas with no intention to hire me. It’s possible that they have the position filled with an inside person, but do the interviews anyway. There are many explanations–even that they “found someone more qualified.” But there is still the problem of free labor.

My suggestion was to create a template of ideas, ideas that she didn’t feel emotionally attached to, and then use those. That was the only suggestion that I could come up with. I mean, we all want to impress potential employers, but the work begins in the first interview, and we are not compensated for ideas that they may use.

What do you think? Are there any solutions to this problem? I would love to get some feedback on it. In this age of free content (Twitter, blogs, etc.) What can the unemployed do to preserve some dignity?

Terressentials: Natural Hair Post, so if you don’t care, skip it

Terressentials

 

My love-hate relationship with Terressentials continues. I LOVE what this clay hair wash does for my hair. I get great definition, and moisture for days. I tried it after I watched  Naptural85 rave about the benefits of this natural hair wash. At the same time, I had been watching videos, and doing research about the ph of hair and skin. I think that I’ve mentioned this before, but just in case, a quick reminder. The hair and skin are at their best when you use products that have a ph range between 4.5-5.5–give or take a few points. Unless you have some type of skin/scalp condition, this ph range keeps stuff from drying out your hair, and bad microbes off of your skin.

If you want fuller/puffier hair, use products that have a ph between 6-7. This is a more neutral ph, which leaves the hair cuticle slightly open. This is usually the general ph range of most products.  For those with fine hair (like me) this range usually is not a problem, as you want more fluff/frizz to the hair. This gives the illusion of thick hair. But, for a fine haired curly, I actually like my hair to be more defined because I get less tangles and breakage. Also, after a wash, as the days go by, my hair gets fuller. ( If you want to experiment, you can find a list of shampoos, conditioners, and their ph on The Natural Haven site

Okay, so this is the deal with Terressentials. My scalp hates this stuff–I think I’ve mentioned it before–but trying to find something that gives me the same results has proved impossible. There are some really good products out there, but Terressentials gives me results that I can’t duplicate with anything else.

In any case, I had to find something to wash my scalp with that wouldn’t dry out my hair before Terressentials application. This is what I do:

  • Wash my scalp with a Bobeam Shampoo Bar (Honey/Shea)–you can purchase from her Etsy Store (link provided) or Curlmart.
  • I rinse. Her shampoo bars leave the hair clean, but not completely stripped of moisture.
  • I then apply Terressentials to the length of my hair making sure that I don’t go near the scalp (I use Left Coast Lemon or Lavender).
  • Detangle and remove shed hairs.
  • Thoroughly rinse out clay wash.
  • Apply  Aubrey Organics White Camellia conditioner and apply plastic cap for deep condition (really acidic/high ph. I think because Terressentials opens the cuticle, this conditioner closes it. It has an odd foaming action–not like the foam/suds of a surfactant–it makes my hair feel squeeky, which is a sign that it is closing the cuticle. But this is my opinion, I have no science to back this up).

My leave-ins are DevaCurl One Condition (ph: 4.7) and Jessicurl Deep Treatment. I seal with a homemade Coconut oil moisturizer (coconut oil base, shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, Jamaican black castor oil, a few drops of argan oil, and essential oils for scent blended with a hand blender). I then apply Kinky Curly Curling Custard.

This may seem like a lot of product, but my hair is defined, moisturized and lasts seven days.

If you decide to try any of these products, let me know what you think!

Graduate School and Thoughts on Academia

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Sorry, I haven’t posted in quite a while. I am in the midst of the spring semester and freaking out about employment. Anyway, I thought that I would knock out a short post while I am working on a library cataloging assignment. Library cataloging is so interesting, and I wish I wasn’t learning with the instructor I have. I don’t want to get into the details and it’s only an intro class, so I will leave it at that.

I have grown a lot over the last few semesters (the summer semester was truncated because that’s how the program is set-up). I have done research in archival science, and have learned much about library and information science. And, contrary to popular belief, you do have to be smart to go into the profession.

I initially thought that I wanted to go into academic librarianship–I still do–but it’s difficult. It seems that I have a knack for choosing the difficult path. So my priority today is that if I can’t get into an entry level or internship position, I will just get into a position that is associated with the field. School loans are coming up, and the priority will be paying on those.

I am kind of disheartened about the state of academia and librarianship. I’ve been doing a lot of reading, and it has basically discouraged me from pursuing a Ph.D. It would be a waste of money and time unless it was paid for. Academia is following the business model, which is a two-tiered system where they keep a lower-class pool of workers (adjuncts) while others prosper at the top. This weakens higher education, and makes it a target for for-profit business people. The corporations and politicians have already found their way into education on all levels–this makes things bad for future generations.

This is a long conversation, but those are my initial thoughts about what is going on, and why I am going to be done with school after I receive my M.S. Also, I am ready to work and travel. I am tired of being land locked.

What is, or has been your experience with higher education? Your experience with libraries, library and info. science, or archives?

First Semester of Grad School

Yes, as the title alludes, I am done with the first semester of graduate school. It was really tough, ummm, I think that’s what I can say about it at this point. I had two classes, and had to finish some projects for a class that I started in the summer, so three courses total. Ach! It was tough, but I think that I got some good research out of it–yes, four months after a 25-page research paper in undergrad, I had another 25-page paper due for graduate school. Aaah! I was loving my life, ha! I did well with it though. I was really surprised because I thought it was a C paper, but I got an A with some in-text notes for changes, but nothing that made me feel like “I really had no idea what I was doing!” It’s a good feeling.

Okay, the difference between undergraduate and graduate is that one is focused on a single discipline…but not really because there is this whole thing about interdisciplinary work. So my research is about library and information science, archives, literature, and social science. Since my research…welp, this is boring, ha! Let me see if I can make this as brief as possible. My graduate research is a continuation of my undergraduate research, which is an exploration of the communities/culture of enslaved black women. That’s all I’m saying.

The instruction is pretty much the same as undergrad: you are teaching yourself. That being said, I hope I find a mentor out of this experience. I really do. After having one when I was younger, albeit for theater, I think it’s really valuable. I am still a bit bitter about not having one for music. I spent a lot of money on vocal lessons, but never really connected with any of my teachers. Well, there was one, but he moved to L.A.

Anyway, I am looking for a part-time position so that I can get some experience while I am in school. That’s it. I am really glad to be on winter break. Perhaps I will get some personal reading done. That is, if I can concentrate. Did I mention I am having trouble with concentration? Ha! I hope to get some rest as well. My home environment is pretty stressful right now. Family is overrated, seriously.

I’ve been hanging on Twitter a lot more these days. I really like it. It’s kind of freaking me out. And I am torn between two blogs. I really like wordpress, but I am in love with tumblr, ugh! What shall I do? Perhaps I will keep the really dark stuff on tumblr? I don’t know. We shall see.

Happy Holidays!

Graduate School: Yes, another post

Hello All,

I am drained, burnt, exhausted, and whatever other term you can think of that describes my deflated state. I will create a full post soon, but for now, I am going to enjoy the rest of the Thanksgiving holiday. I will probably post some time in the second week of December. When the semester is ovah!! Ugh!